A Contemporary Becomes Victorian

The second couple had an unusual project that was both interesting and unique. They moved to Spokane from Seattle in 1990, at which time they purchased their 1910 home at a cost of about $55,000. Even though the home required a lot of work just to make it livable, they bought it because of the neighborhood. It was a three-bedroom, two-bathroom, one-and a half story contemporary home with 1,900 square feet, including 600 square feet in the basement. He had been a carpenter for 20 years and both are in real estate. This project was so extreme—a major remodel since they wanted a Victorian house—that if you hadn’t seen the home before it was remodeled, you would never recognize it.

He drew his own plans and they decided to handle the entire project themselves. They started in 1991 by adding a 900 square-foot two-car garage. Work on the home actually started in 1992. Before the entire project was completed, they estimated total costs somewhere around $40,000 in materials only since the owner supplied all the labor. This project also allowed the couple to reinvest profits from the sale of their home in Seattle. Again, this home outpriced other homes in the neighborhood which are valued between $110,000 and $150,000.

Some of the products that were purchased and installed will not only save money in terms of energy efficiency but will also enhance the finished look of the overall project. For example, they selected used 2″ decking and used columns for the front porch. They added another 1,100 square feet to both floors for a total of 3,000 square feet including an additional 600 square feet for the basement and an additional 900 square feet above the garage that is used as a self-contained studio apartment (kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom—all electrical is on the house meter). The rest of the home has six bedrooms and three bathrooms.

Incidentally, the sycamore tree in the yard dates back almost 90 years and really enhances the overall transformation this house has undergone. In the early 1900s this tree, along with others (locusts, Norway maples, and elms) were used in plantings designed by the Olmsted Brothers, famous landscape architects of Brookline, Massachusetts. This firm also designed Central Park in New York City and the Stanford University campus. This particular sycamore tree was shipped in from a Boston nursery and was featured in an article in Sunset Magazine in 1967.

You can view the pictures or have fun setting up duels between glamorous kitchens. When you’ve finished with your own remodel, post a picture for a duel – dare you?

“Today, building science experts have found that some building products and faulty installation methods used just a short time ago have contributed to the structural damage that homes are currently experiencing today.” says Lee Haller, owner of Haller Custom Homes, a builder of high-end homes and residential neighborhoods in the western Philadelphia suburbs. Haller’s company specializes in remediation and restoration of moisture-damaged homes.

Haller says the construction industry has taken great strides to create new approaches to avoid bulk water intrusion, and to drain and dry any water that does manage to penetrate the exterior cladding. But what to do with newer homes that were built before these best practices were introduced?

According to housingzone.com, one solution to avoiding the problem of bulk water intrusion has been the incorporation of a rainscreen system in the home’s design. A rainscreen, as described by the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB)

Research Center, is a moisture-management system incorporating cladding, an air cavity and a drainage plane to shed moisture and prevent moisture intrusion and the resulting premature decay in homes.

Haller adds that builders constructing homes without a rainscreen system behind any absorptive cladding like stucco, stone or fiber cement should also think twice. “I know for a fact that the builders who are dealing with liability issues for the repair of the original construction are finding that the cost of the repairs totally erase the profit they made on the home when it was first built, and then some,” he says. “I say spend the little bit extra when the home is being built and avoid the huge possible expense down the road.”

The NAHB recently issued an educational guide that discussed the need for better drainage behind so-called “absorptive” exterior claddings, which include any materials that are semi-porous and may transmit or retain some water. This can include stucco, manufactured stone, stone veneer and even fiber-cement siding. Among the products referenced that can be used as part of an effective building envelope system is a wall drainage spacer, described as an “open-weave plastic mat.”

Haller’s Approach:

•After studying the home’s condition, erect scaffolding and begin removing the stucco.

• Examine the sheathing. If the OSB or plywood is damaged, replace it. With OSB , run a circular saw around the joints of the OSB to create a 1/16-inch gap.

• Replace damaged 2 x 4s or other structural framing.

• If windows are damaged or other specific conditions are present, re-install them or replace them using the latest wrap products and flashing for moisture-resistance. Cover the windows for protection.

• Remove the cornice and apply the water-resistant barrier to the entire wall, including behind where the cornice had been. Gables are extended to create an overhang to prevent water entry.

• Install Benjamin Obdyke’s Home Slicker Stone & Stucco.

• House is watertight at that point and ready to stucco.

Alternatives to Home Slicker include offerings from:

Sto Corp.

Vaproshield

Dow

Masonry Innovations

The question then is how to pick your colors. A great place to start is with your own preferences. Think of place or things that please you and the colors they have or evoke. The inspiration may come from a fabric, food or place. Color is everywhere, pay close attention and you can find ones that excite, or calm you.

You can also make a trip to the paint store where there are hundreds of paint chips to choose from along with small sample cans for purchase. These small samples allow you to try the color at home on a larger area and can be a great way to test your final choices before committing to them.

Designers use a storyboard to create a mock up design of a room. Create your own storyboard using pictures or clippings from magazines that illustrate designs and colors that you like. Add to this your paint chips, fabric swatches, floor plan, photos of accessories and any other decorating and remodeling ideas you would like to use in the space. Pooling these items allows you to see how they will all work together.

This question alone is enough to strike fear into anyone’s heart. The truth is not many people enjoy establishing a remodeling budget-and many just don’t. Many homeowners prefer to call a remodeling contractor and expect him or her to create the budget for them, which is not the best way to begin. How do you start off right? You can begin by taking these four easy steps in the right direction:

Step One: Decide how long you plan on staying in your home. The length of time you intend to stay in a home will affect how much money you should invest in it. If you are going to stay in the home for more than ten years, you should spend as much as you are able to create the home of your dreams. However, if you are planning on moving in the near future, you should take care not to over-build for your neighborhood. Look into the real estate comparisons for your area and keep your investment in line with the average home sales price. You don’t want to invest thousands of dollars you won’t be able to recoup at closing.

Step Two: Make a list of all your debts. You should include any debts you pay on a monthly basis, such as mortgages, car loans, credit cards, and any other items with a fixed monthly payment. This list should not include payments for groceries, utilities, telephone services, or other general expenses. Call this list your monthly expenses.

Step Three: Determine your total gross monthly income. Include all sources of income that you would list on a loan application.

Step Four: Complete the following worksheet to determine how much you can afford to pay for your remodeling project on a monthly basis. These formulas are used when the remodeling project is going to be financed. Warning: Cash is not always the best option!

Calculations 101

Step 1 – DTI

Lenders use a simple Debt-to-Income (DTI) ratio to determine if a homeowner can afford the additional debt of a remodeling project.

DTI

Enter Your Total Monthly Expenses $

Add the Estimated Monthly Payment for the Remodeling

Project + $

Total = $

Divide the Total by Your Gross Monthly Income… $

DTI % =

Each lender will approve loans at a specific DTI percentage (most lenders will tell you what their set DTI ratio is, if you ask). For example, if the lender accepts DTI ratios of 45 percent and your DTI ratio is 30 percent, your loan would be approved. However, if your DTI ratio is 55 percent, you would need to find other financing options. Perhaps your lender offers debt consolidation loans that could reduce your DTI ratio, which brings us to the next step:

Step 2 – The Maximum Payment

The next step is to determine the maximum monthly payment you can afford for remodeling. Multiply your monthly gross income amount by the lender’s maximum DTI allowance, and subtract your current total monthly expenses, excluding the estimated remodeling payment.

Gross Monthly Income $

Lender’s DTI ratio x

Subtotal = $

Total Monthly Expenses – $

Maximum Affordable Payment = $

If the last line is negative, you will not be able to borrow from that lender. See step 3 for further options.

STEP 3 – Consolidation

If your DTI ratio was above the lender’s accepted percentage, or if your maximum affordable payment was too low, you may want to consider a debt consolidation loan. This would incorporate your current debts into the home improvement loan. Not only does this allow you to roll your debts into what may be a tax deductible loan, it also provides one easy payment for your debts and lowers your DTI percentage. In addition, the interest rate on a debt consolidation loan may be lower, which will save you additional money.

This kind of floor plan is not only family-friendly and perfect for entertaining, it will actually sell better if you ever decide to put your home on the market. An open floor plan makes your space seem bigger and more up to date. However, rooms with competing decor, such as a contemporary family room versus a traditionally styled kitchen, can make blending the space difficult.

The best way to make an open floor plan a success is to create a seamless transition from the kitchen to the other living spaces. “A homeowner can bring family spaces and the kitchen together by blending design periods to create a unique style,” says Connie Edwards, certified kitchen and bathroom designer and director of design for American Woodmark cabinetry. “There are ways to thoughtfully combine traditional and contemporary elements. The end result is a very warm, casual, comfortable feeling – with an air of sophistication that flows throughout the home.”

Edwards offers some useful tips on creating a harmonious open floor plan:

* Incorporate small contemporary touches that make a big impact, such as a stainless steel range hood and a glass mosaic tile backsplash. Just make sure that the colors and textures are compatible with each other and the adjoining room.

* Select a cabinet door in a rich brown finish that complements living and dining room furniture. American Woodmark, sold exclusively at Home Depot, offers an Auburn Glaze on 11 different maple door styles. The deep brown glaze over a Cognac finish settles into the corners and grooves, giving the cabinets a traditional, vintage look. Pairing this with modern hardware completes the transitional design.

* Display contemporary decorative objects on open shelving in the kitchen island. Selecting objects that complement the decor of the adjoining room is a subtle way to make the kitchen flow nicely with the open space.

* Consider a farmhouse sink that has been redesigned with a contemporary finish, such as stainless steel. Stainless steel acts as a neutral, so it will not detract from more elaborate home decorations.

The recent economic downturn has forced 67 percent of homeowners to rethink their plans, with the biggest changes including doing work themselves (42%), fixing or sprucing up what they already have (39%) and remodeling in phases (36%). The biggest reason consumers are cutting back on remodeling is because they simply do not have the money (42%).

Funding for home remodeling stems from a variety of places, but two out of three (66%) homeowners support their projects with their savings. Others plan to cut back on travel and entertainment (29%), while one out of five (21%) are using a home equity or other loan.

Ninety-one percent of homeowners have already gotten their hands dirty with either a repair or remodeling project. But not all repairs or remodeling projects went smoothly for DIY respondents, with over one third (34%) having at least one regret stemming from trying to fix a broken appliance, installing tile, floors or cabinets.

“Whether homeowners are venturing into a project themselves or plan to hire a professional, you need to lay out a budget, decide what you want most at the end of the project — and decide what you can live without,” says Bob Markovich, senior home editor at Consumer Reports. “The more homeowners know what they’re getting into, the more money they’ll save.”

Consumer Reports Readers Reveal Top 5 Remodeling Headaches

According to the poll, the most popular remodeling projects for homeowners are kitchens (19%) and bathrooms (17%). In another survey, Consumer Reports asked 6,000 readers to reveal what went wrong when they remodeled their kitchens and baths and how much those mistakes added to the overall cost of their projects. Here’s how to avoid their mistakes and save:

1. Don’t rush in. Changing plans is the most common, but costliest remodeling gaffe, adding $1,500 to kitchen projects and $650 to bath remodels. Be sure to leave time for research and create a comprehensive plan, listing every product.
2. Prepare for the unexpected. There’s a lot going on behind the walls. Unexpected water damage was an issue with 17 percent of bathroom remodels, while structural problems caused headaches for 10 percent of kitchen projects. A good contractor will be able to anticipate, allowing the homeowner to budget accordingly.
3. Don’t chase the low ball. Contractors are lowering their profit margins due to the tight market, but they often make up their costs in labor or other areas. Readers who went for the lowball ended up spending a median of $1,500 extra for labor on their kitchens and $1,000 extra on their bathrooms. Don’t sign a contract with a lot of open-ended amounts for products and materials — these are called “allowances,” in contractor speak.
4. Get the paperwork in order. Have the contractor attach copies of his up-to-date license, insurance, and workers’ compensation policies to the written contract. He should also get permits and provide a lien waiver when the job is done; this will keep suppliers from contacting the homeowner for unpaid bills.
5. Focus on the boring bits. Specifying lighting and placement of trash cans are not much fun, but are critical to the process. For example, the proper exhaust fan will prevent mildew in baths and vent odors in kitchens.

Here are some simple ideas for making a small bathroom feel larger without expending money on an extensive bathroom enlargement.

1. Paint the walls in a light color. Pale, cool and soft colors are best for rooms that have small ceilings or tight walls. Do not opt for bright or loud colors, as these tend to make rooms look even smaller than they are. Whites, neutrals and pale pastel tones are ideal, especially for bathrooms.

2. The color of the bathroom floor should also be light. If you have a dark floor and it cannot be replaced, consider covering the dark color with a lighter colored floor mat.

3. Bathroom tiles look best when they are large, because this creates a feeling of space.

4. Provide adequate storage space, because clutter makes small bathrooms appear even smaller.

5. Avoid pedestal sinks because they do not offer any form of storage space. They may look cool, but in small bathrooms they are simply unsuitable.

6. Use only a single large mirror in the bathroom. It will add depth by reflecting light.

7. Use counter-top lamps or wall sconce lighting, skylights or large windows to light the bathroom. These lighting options add the appearance of more space and do not require much space of their own.

8. Your shower screens should be clear rather than an opaque color, because the clear screen gives a feeling of additional space. Fully frameless shower screens are preferable because they do not create any visual barriers in an already tight space.

9. Keep your bathroom as neat and clean as you can, because dirty and cluttered bathrooms tend to look even smaller than they are and this is the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish!

Most of these ideas are highly affordable, especially if you do them yourself. A simple paint job is doable by most of us, and with some simple instructions (which you will find on remodel.net) you can learn to hang a mirror and install a light fixture. Go for it – that new look is there waiting for you.

A recent American Institute of Architects Home Design Trends Survey showed that homeowners are rethinking how they use the square footage they have. They are converting previously unused areas, such as basements and attics, and incorporating outdoor areas into their design plans in an effort to boost their home’s livability and value. Some are also using additions to create better flow between existing rooms and make living areas more practical.

“It’s all about maximizing space and making a home feel larger,” said Sonny Nazemian, president and CEO of Michael Nash Custom Kitchens & Homes, Inc. in Fairfax, Va. He and his design team recently won a 2009 CotY Award for a two-story, 1,250-square-foot addition they built on a 2,300-square foot house. The remodeler helped the homeowners reconfigure their existing spaces to optimize traffic flow, create new living areas and improve storage.

“Before the project, the house felt extremely small,” Nazemian said. “The first floor was cramped and they had a small dining room and narrow family room. By adding 12 feet on the back of the house, the living spaces became much larger.”

The remodeled home now boasts a gourmet kitchen with a bigger and brighter breakfast area. The small dining room became a laundry room, and Nazemian made space for a new dining room. Upstairs, hallways and a bedroom were expanded, and a bathroom was added.

Reworking the home’s footprint also created a spot for a “man cave,” or lounging area for the husband. Outfitted with a couple of lounge chairs, a television, custom shelving and sound system, the man of the house now uses the 10 x 20-foot bonus room to watch games with family and friends.

“When you add 10 or 12 feet to a home, it can change the entire configuration,” Nazemian said. “In just three to four months, we really transformed and opened up this space.”

By making the switch yourself, you can do it without breaking the bank. Lowes.com offers their step-by-step instructions for getting the job done:

First measure for new windows:
It is important to have accurate measurements for every window in your home. Accurate measurements ensure that your windows fit properly for maximum energy savings and ease of installation.

Important!

Take all measurements from inside your home.

Be sure to measure all the way to the jambs on the left and right. Measuring only to the stops would cause your new windows to be too narrow.

1. To find the width, measure from the inside of the jamb on one side of the window to the inside of the jamb on the other side of the window. Measure at the bottom, middle and top of the window. Use the narrowest measurement for the width of your replacement window.

2. To find the height, measure from the top of the sill to the bottom of the window’s head jamb. Measure at the left, middle and right of the window. Use the shortest measurement for the height of your replacement window.

Using the smallest measurements ensures that the replacement window will fit inside the existing window frame.

Remove the old window sashes:

Since the replacement windows fit inside the existing window frame, you only have to remove the sashes, parting bead and inside stop from the existing window. To make the project easier and safer, install your new windows from inside your home.

1. Remove the inside stop pieces from the window. Take care when removing these pieces; you will reuse them when installing the new windows.

2. Remove the inside sash. If the old window uses weights, cut the sash cords or chains. Let the weights fall to the bottom of their wells and simply leave them there.

3. Slide the outside sash to the bottom of the window. Remove and discard the parting beads. Remove the outside sash in the same manner as the inside sash. Do not remove the exterior stop from the window jambs. These stops will retain the replacement window when you install it.

4. Clean the window jambs and sill thoroughly. If the old window had weights, either drive the pulleys into the frame or remove them entirely. Fill any holes in the jambs or sill with caulk.

Install the new window:

Poorly installed or adjusted windows waste energy and are difficult to operate, so take your time installing and adjusting your new window.

1. Lay a bead of caulk along the inside of the outside stops on the jambs. Mark the sill for the sill angle. Caulk and install the sill angle.

2. Center the top and bottom sashes vertically in the new window frame. Slide the bumper stops toward the center of the frame until the four mounting holes in the side jambs (two top and two bottom) are visible.

3. Place the header, also called the expander, on top of the window and caulk its top.
Window expander.
Put the header in place and secure it with the small screws provided with the window.

4. Place the window in the opening and check for square. If the window is not square in the opening, shim as needed to square it. Install the mounting screws at the top and bottom of each side jamb. Do not install the screws so tightly that they deform the side jambs.

5. Slide the header up so that it seals any gap between the top of the new window and the old frame. Use the screws provided with the window to secure the header in place.

6. Slide the top and bottom sashes up and down to check for gaps and smooth operation. If the sashes do not operate smoothly, use the built-in adjustment screws in the side jambs to adjust the window frame. Precise adjustment varies by manufacturer, so refer to the manufacturer’s notes for specific adjustment instructions.

7. Caulk the inside of the window and reinstall the inside stops.

This is a do-it-yourself project for a homeowner who has had some previous experience with home remodeling projects.