Embassy House products use mortise and tenon front frame construction and feature all-wood cabinetry rather than relying on melamine or particleboard. Currently, the company carries 20 door styles, 10 finishes and 8 wood species. Glazing, antiquing and other techniques or decoration options are available as well.

“Our semi-custom cabinetry offers many of the same designer details such as full extension, soft-closing drawers that come standard,” said Patrick Byrne, executive Vice President of Embassy House Cabinetry. “Embassy House cabinets come in 3 in. increments, but you are still able to modify your width and depth as you can with custom. And homeowners can choose from a wider selection of woods, finishes and door selections versus stock cabinetry. Semi-custom also allows for faster production than custom.”

All wood construction, including natural Birch plywood tops, bottoms, backs and sides, and solid hardwood doors and face frames. All with a limited lifetime warranty.

You can view the pictures or have fun setting up duels between glamorous kitchens. When you’ve finished with your own remodel, post a picture for a duel – dare you?

We chose a classic 3 x 6-in. New York subway-style tile with patterned stone trim pieces that matched our countertop color. The shelf above the range is perfect for setting seasoning containers on while you’re cooking. This design feature should only be used for a range that has a panel backsplash or heat deflector built into it.

To have as much space as possible for our tile design, we chose new countertops that didn’t have the typical built-in backsplash. But you could also tile above such backsplashes with equally great results. As for price, for an average-size kitchen, you’ll spend $300 to $500 for moderately priced tile, or about $7 per square foot.

The only special tools you’ll need are a notched trowel, a margin trowel for mixing, a tile saw to cut tile around electrical boxes and at corners, and a level to draw layout lines.

Prep the Walls to Maximize Tile Adhesion
Wash the walls of the backsplash with a non-sudsing cleaner like Soilax or TSP and thoroughly rinse with clear water to remove any residue. In most cases, after washing you can sand the wall with 100-grit sandpaper to slightly roughen the surface of the paint.

Before you tile, protect the surface of the countertops, because the thin-set mortar and the backside of the tiles are abrasive.

Installation
Plan Your Tile Layout
The tile you choose and the dimensions of your backsplash area will dictate your layout. Here are a few suggestions to get your layout to work:

Sketch your backsplash design on graph paper and figure the amount of tile you need. Buy an extra 10 percent to make up for cutoffs and any goofs you might make while cutting.

Once you get your tile, lay out a section of it complete with spacers to see the amount of coverage you’ll get with your tile.

Measure the backsplash area again from side to side and bottom to top to make sure your pattern will work. You want to avoid having pieces smaller than an inch at the top and the ends. Small pieces are difficult to cut and make the project look amateurish.

You may want to shift the pattern to avoid complicated cuts around electrical outlets and other obstructions.

Remember to allow space for a caulk joint at inside corners; this can affect the size of pieces as well.

Once you have your layout, transfer guidelines onto the wall with your level and square. The lines will act as a general guide, so don’t plot every tile.

Mix the Mortar to a Toothpaste Consistency
We chose thin-set mortar rather than a mastic adhesive because thin-set is heat resistant and forms an excellent bond. It’s very easy to mix: Just add water and an acrylic-bonding agent in equal amounts to the powder until you get a smooth mix the consistency of toothpaste. The bonding agent improves the durability and flexibility of the mortar.

Spread the mortar onto the wall with your notched trowel. We chose a 1/4-in. notched trowel for our tile. Ask your tile supplier what will work best for the tile you chose.

Push Your Tile Into the Mortar
Following your layout lines, start pushing your tile into the mortar one piece at a time. Don’t spread too much mortar onto the wall and get ahead of yourself. The mortar will start to dry and reduce the adhesion. Generally it’s best to spread the adhesive for only about 10 pieces of tile until you get the hang of it and can increase your speed. If the mortar skins over and dries, scrape it off and apply fresh mortar.

Insert the tile spacers as you go to keep the tiles from sagging into each other, and don’t worry about small globs of mortar oozing between the tiles. You can always go back a few hours later and knock them loose with a putty knife or chisel. Continue spreading mortar, cutting the end pieces and adding courses.

Use a Wet Saw to Cut Tile Around Electrical Boxes
Shut the power off to your backsplash receptacles and unscrew and pull out the devices so they won’t get in your way as you measure and cut around them. There’s no real trick here other than measuring and marking the tile so it’s even with the edges of the box. First mark the cutout on your tile with a fine-tip permanent marker so the lines won’t wash away on the wet saw.When cutting pieces to fit into the corners, ease the sharp edges of the cuts with a tile stone ($5 at your tile supplier).

Cleanup Before Grouting Is Crucial
Once the mortar has set overnight, remove the spacers and go back with a putty or utility knife and clean the clumps of oozing mortar from the tile and spaces between. Also clean out the excess mortar under the first course of tile at the countertops to leave space for caulk. Once the backsplash is cleaned off, thoroughly vacuum the entire shelf and countertop before grouting. If you fail to get all the excess mortar scraped away, the grout will be discolored at those spots.

Push the Grout Into the Spaces
Mixing grout is similar to mixing thin-set mortar. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Some types of grout need an acrylic additive; others don’t. Mix just what you can apply in about 20 minutes so it doesn’t dry out. Usually about a quart of grout (mixed) works best. Acrylic additives shouldn’t be used with some natural-stone tile to avoid staining the stone, so check with your tile supplier.

Push the grout into the spaces between the tiles with a grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to the tile and push firmly across the tile surfaces. For stubborn, hard-to-get-at spots in corners, you may need to push it in with your fingers(wear rubber gloves). Use the float to wipe away any excess grout and then scrape it back into your bucket. Divide the project into manageable chunks. You don’t need to grout the whole project at one time.

After about 15 minutes or so, you should start sponging the tile surface to remove the grout. Be sure to wring out the sponge well so you won’t add a lot of water to the grout as it sets. Too much water will weaken the grout mixture. Wipe the surface at least three times and check for haze once it dries.

Note: If you choose stone or tile with a dull finish, you may need to seal it before grouting. This keeps the grout from being absorbed into the tile and forming a stubborn haze.

TIP: Never pour excess mortar or grout down your drain. You’ll have a huge plumbing bill and a lot of headaches if it hardens down there. Just throw the excess mortar into the trash and clean the bucket with a stiff brush. For your rinse buckets, let the grout or mortar settle to the bottom, pour off the water at the top and scoop the thick waste at the bottom into the trash.

Caulk the Seam Between the Tile and the Countertop
Once the grout has set for a couple of hours, remove the protective paper and tape from the countertops. Clean the countertop seam with a knife and then vacuum the bits of dried grout. Caulk the seam with a siliconized latex caulk and wipe the excess away with a clean cloth to get a small profile joint. You may need to wipe several times with a damp cloth to get the desired effect.

For in-depth details and buyers guides, you can visit The Family Handyman.

Check it out here.

Pick any 5. Get $500
Pick any 4. Get $300
Pick any 3. Get $200
Pick any 2. Get $100

Check out the GE site for entry and more details.

Sears, the nation’s No. 1 appliance retailer, said it will introduce 17 Jenn-Air refrigerators, dishwashers and cooking products by mid-month at 255 of its largest stores. Jenn-Air will continue to be available to independent dealers and regional chains.

This presents Sears with a prestige kitchen collection just as consumers begin planning their holiday entertaining.

Price points for the luxury line run as high as nearly $10,000 for some built-in refrigerator models.

Sears has recently beefed up its high-margin premium portfolio with the addition of Bosch appliances and the expansion of its private-label Kenmore Elite collection.

“Sears continues to listen to our customers who have voiced their desire for a super-premium line,” said Sears’ home appliances president Doug Moore. “Our relationship with Jenn-Air to carry its luxury line of kitchen appliances is another great example of how we continue to enhance our brand offerings.”

Granite
Granite is a popular choice for kitchen counter tops. Because it is a quarried stone, no two counter tops are the same. Granite is durable, stain resistant, and does not conduct heat or cold. It is somewhat porous, so it does require applying a sealant once a year to protect it. Counter top finishes are either polished with a smooth reflective glass-like surface; honed, which creates a matte surface; flamed to create textural interest or tumbled to resemble natural stone. Priced by the square foot, it costs anywhere from $70 – $300 per square foot installed, depending on the type and availability of granite.

Concrete
Concrete is an unexpected choice for a counter top, yet one that might be right for your kitchen. Concrete counter tops are always custom-made and consist of 1-½ inch thick slab that rests on top of a wooden counter base. Color pigments are added directly to the concrete mix so it’s possible to have a counter top in any color you desire. Finishes for concrete counter tops are similar to the honed surfaces used for stone. Textures vary depending on the aggregate ingredients, which may include anything from fine sand to tiny pebbles. Concrete counter tops require a penetrating sealer followed by a coat of wax, which must be reapplied every few months. Acidic substances, such as vinegar, will etch the surface if not wiped up immediately. In addition, concrete counter tops may develop hairline cracks over time. Concrete countertops range from $170 to $225 per linear foot installed, or about $100 per square foot installed.

Corian
Corian is the name brand for a solid plastic material permeated throughout with color and a particular pattern. Although it is man-made it often resembles stone, especially granite and marble. Corian is durable, heat resistant, and fairly scratch resistant, although a cutting board is still recommended. Minor stains or burns can be removed by using a non-abrasive scouring pad. Another advantage to Corian is thatthe seams are invisible. The installed cost of Corian ranges from $75 to $150 per linear foot.

Laminate
Laminate is the least-expensive option for counter tops and has been around for many years. It is available in a range of patterns including faux stone, wood, and metal. Laminate is composed of a composite of numerous layers of plastic-coated paper, with the top layer exhibiting the desired pattern and color. The layers of paper are bonded to particleboard under conditions of pressure and heat. Laminate is very easy to maintain but is susceptible to scratches, which can’t be repaired without replacing the entire section of laminate. It is not heat resistant and although quite durable, it may de-laminate or lift off the particleboard subsurface along the edges of the counter or sink if not properly maintained. Laminate costs about $10 a square foot installed.

Stainless steel
Stainless steel counter tops are made from a metal alloy that makes them rustproof. Expensive and difficult to install, stainless steel counter tops are custom made and have no seams. They are placed over a wooden sub-base to prevent denting and minimize noise. A stainless steel counter top is often the first choice for serious chefs, or those who like clean ultra modern lines. The silvery-gray color of stainless steel is a neutral color that blends well into many types of décor. Stainless steel counter tops are low maintenance, non-porous, and heat and stain resistant; however, fingerprints are very noticeable on the surface. A cutting board is recommended because stainless steel will dull knife blades with repeated contact. These counter tops cost about $85-$100 per square foot.

In the Kitchen:

* If at all possible, reuse existing appliances, and build your new cabinets around them. This could save you anywhere from $1,500–5,000 easily. However, be aware that appliances, like anything electrical, are sensitive to change and may develop problems if they are moved. Should you decide to avoid potential appliance “burn–out” and purchase new appliances, choose energy conscious models for a reduction in your utility bills.

* Maintain present location of major fixtures, appliances and utilities relative to the plumbing, gas and electrical outlets. This could even apply to the location of the telephone. Moving plumbing, wiring and jacks can be extremely expensive.

* The faucet can be a costly item. The least expensive selection is chrome. Even a high-end chrome faucet is considerably less than a mid-range brass or porcelain version. A standard two-handle faucet generally costs less than single handle. Faucets and handles are sold separately, so you may want to choose a chrome faucet with brass or porcelain handles for a different look. Faucet caution: The price variances in faucets reflect the various internal and external features. Always choose a faucet with replaceable internal parts. You won’t want to have to replace the entire faucet if it breaks – it’s simply not cost-effective.

* Choose neutral colors in fixtures, appliances and laminates. They are less expensive initially and wont look dated when the color trends change. White and almond sinks are much cheaper than color varieties. And neutral laminate colors for countertops are less than custom colors or textures.

* Good floor covering is important. It ties one room to another and provides visual consistency. Familiarize yourself with the prices of the various flooring materials to make the best decision for your home. To get you started, vinyl or laminate flooring is less expensive than wood, tile or slate.

* Use the existing floor covering if it is still in good condition. If the kitchen has old vinyl flooring, there may be a hardwood floor underneath that could be sanded and refinished, avoiding the need for a new floor entirely.

* If you currently have a vinyl floor covering and wish to update with a newer version, you can install synthetic floor leveler material over the existing vinyl floor and lay the new vinyl flooring on top, rather than tearing the old flooring off to install the new.

* Consider your cabinet options carefully. Those choices will drive the overall price. You can add some options at a later date to defray some of the initial cost. Some that are easy to add include tilt front doors, spice racks and slide out wire baskets. However, if you decide to wait, make certain that the option you want will be available and can be added after installation. Note of caution: Waiting will cost you more in the long run. Adding new cabinets often requires installing a new floor. Refacing existing cabinets not only eliminates the need for new flooring, countertops and appliances altogether, it is a major savings in any kitchen remodel.

* Go with a simple design in the kitchen employing single height wall cabinets, blind corner cabinets rather than those with Lazy Susans, and other standard options. Watch your upgrades.

* Use standard cabinetry instead of custom cabinets, or use a combination of the two if they are compatible.

* Choose cabinets that can be operated without the addition of hardware (those that are finger–pulled).

* Install cabinets without soffits to decrease the labor cost. Also consider cabinets without trim moldings or with simple trim.

* If you are going to put in new wood trim (in your crown molding, trims, and door casings) to match the new cabinets, order pre–finished trim instead of having the painting or staining done on–site. This will decrease labor cost. Ordering finger–jointed vs. clear vertical grain also will save you money.

* Consider stenciling on the backsplash instead of using tile.

* Laminate countertops are the least expensive choice among solid surfacing, tile and granite. You can dress it up with wood or tile trim for a more innovative look.

* Connect fluorescent light fixtures to the existing ceiling fixture box instead of installing new recessed lighting, which may require a new ceiling because of the recessed features.

Now that you’ve read this – go- create a new kitchen!

Getting Started

* The most important step is finding a professional remodeling contractor for your job. Check out Find a Professional Remodeler on www.RemodelToday.com for a contractor near you.

* Hire a professional contractor who is familiar with the building codes in your area. Updating work that does not meet code can be extremely expensive.

* A well–written contract can prevent costly mistakes or additions to the scope of your project. It is a critical step in maintaining your budget.

* Save money by planning ahead. Go through the design process first and choose everything you want to include in the new room(s), from appliances to light fixtures, etc. This will define your budget and prevent hasty (and costly) decisions later in the project. Be sure to include all your product and material selections in the contract to avoid confusion and unnecessary change orders. Include the model, size, color, and other specifications. It is also wise to save 10–20 percent of your budget to allow for items added to the scope of work.

* The number one way to decrease the cost of your remodeling project is product choices. Look around to determine whether you can achieve a similar look with a less expensive product.

* In addition, pay attention to how labor intensive some design features may be, for example laying ceramic tile on kitchen countertops and the backsplash.

* Compare products and their prices carefully before you make final decisions. And keep an open mind when you discuss product and design ideas with your contractor.

* Make decisions based on value and quality, not just price.

* Think about staging the work being done to minimize the initial financial impact. It is often easier to create a more manageable budget by starting small and adding to the project at a later date. This will break the work into several jobs instead of one large project. The down side of staging a remodel is that you may end up paying more in the long run.

General Remodeling Tips

* Be creative. There are often multiple solutions to accomplish a design objective, some more expensive than others. Discuss various options with your contractor.
* If all the room really needs is a facelift, make the most of changes with paint, as opposed to structural changes. Changing the color of a room can revitalize it. This is the easiest way to bring life to a room on a budget.
* Heavy or textured wallpaper can work wonders as well. You can save money by wallpapering a slightly damaged wall rather than replacing it. If the wall has grass cloth wallpaper on it, consider whitewashing it for a totally new look. Several layers of whitewash (in various shades of white) produce a clean, sophisticated look in any room.
* Faux finish painting or other textured decorative painting techniques also can hide minor damage or irregularities that flat paint won’t.
* Attempt to keep windows in their existing places during a remodeling project. Moving windows is not a cost–saving endeavor.

Finding Space

* Creating more space can be a big budget buster. Once you add square footage to a home, the price increases significantly. One alternative is to borrow space from a neighboring room (called space reconfiguration). A great place to steal space for a bathroom expansion is from the linen closet. You can make up some of the lost storage by finding small spaces in between wall studs for small niches or built–in shelves.
* You can also try borrowing space with optical illusions. There are many ways to make a small room appear larger. To transform a small bath, install a bow window or a skylight. Vaulted ceilings can be a nice touch, too.
* If you are going to expand outside the existing home, consider a small bump out of two to four feet. This may allow you to cantilever the floor joists and eliminate the need for excavation and foundation. If possible, be careful not to extend beyond the roofline, which might require a new roofline to your job.
* Whenever you are adding on new space to a home, have a heating/cooling contractor determine whether your existing heating/air conditioning system can accommodate and heat/cool the extra space. If the heating/cooling system is damaged, you will be forced to replace the existing units.

Each remodeling job is different, we offer tips for kitchens and bathrooms specifically.