The same applies to the pens, markers, rulers and crayons that are required each night for homework. I think I have found the perfect solution. Ikea offers something they call Wall Storage. It is ingenious and can go just about anywhere.

Need to keep the toothbrushes off the vanity? Combine the Asker container with a rail and S hook and you have simple storage for under $10.
Add a magnetic strip to any combination of rails and hooks, use the three-pack of lidded containers and you can contain thumbtacks in the office, spices in the kitchen or buttons in the sewing room.

I like the idea of using a magnetic strip for displaying kid’s artwork or even recipes. Just use a magnetic clip to hold them up. Better yet, let the kids decorate clothespins and add a magnet to the back.

Here’s an idea from Funky Junky Interiors:

This storage system was originally designed for the kitchen, and although I see it as multipurpose, the system comes with pieces designed specifically for the kitchen – paper towel holders and spice racks.

If you are planning a kitchen or bathroom remodel, or trying to organize your existing rooms, you might want to consider the use of open wall space for extra storage

Here are some reason why from someone whose been there:

1. Warranty. I wanted the option of being able to call someone if anything went wrong during or after construction. It put my mind at ease to know that the General Contractor (GC) would be there whatever the issue, whenever it might occur and do whatever it takes to remedy the situation.

2. Language barrier. Like any profession, the building industry has its own vocabulary, communication method and process. Unless you are knowledgeable of the field, understand the construction process and what the specific project involves, and know who to and how to and when to communicate with the various subcontractors, vendors, distributors and city officials, you will be in over your head.

3. Major time-commitment. There are a lot of behind-the-scenes organization, paperwork and phone calls that need to be made before and during a project. If you are unfamiliar with the construction industry, managing the project will become your full-time job as there will be a steep learning curve. If you are already employed, it will be very difficult to do both jobs well. Passing on the duties of GC simplified my life and allowed me to concentrate on my roles as architect and homeowner.

4. Headaches. In theory, scheduling and project coordination sound like relatively easy tasks, but not so. There are many trades that need to be involved in a moderately-sized project, and they all need to be scheduled, timed, organized, synchronized and managed. Inspectors and subcontractors go on vacation or may be unavailable at a desired time. Frustrations occur when materials get back-ordered, discontinued, shipped incorrectly, arrive damaged or incomplete, have special handling requirements or need to be picked-up. Other duties that I did not want to take on were checking pricing, verifying invoices and managing the payments. These were better left to the GC.

5. Established relationship with subcontractors. It takes a GC several years to develop and maintain a circle of trusted tradesmen. He will know several professionals in each trade and will be able to best match the subcontractor to the job and client. When hiring a GC, the homeowner benefits from the GC’s knowledge of the industry, years of experience and local contacts. But when a homeowner hires a sub himself, there are risks for both parties. For the homeowner, there are potentially higher project costs, longer construction time, sporadic work by subs and having an unknown and untested person work in the home. As the project is just a one-time event, the homeowner is not as important as a GC to a sub because there is no promise of repeat business or multiple jobs. Subs will often charge a little more when dealing directly with a homeowner because of the time needed to educate and manage the homeowner. For the tradesman, there are the risks of not being paid by the homeowner on the agreed upon price or even on time, working for someone who may not have a good understanding of the construction process, and not have a defined scope, schedule, budget or materials list.

6. Insurance. General contractors and their subs are licensed, bonded and insured. As such, they, the homeowner and the project are protected if injury, theft, vandalism or late or nonpayment should occur. These issues are not so straightforward when a homeowner acts as their own GC, and a homeowner’s policy alone does not provide full coverage during construction. Of course you should always verify that a GC is LBI before hiring him.

7. Permit process. Although usually done by the architect, the GC can navigate the plans through permitting on your behalf. He is knowledgeable about the local codes and regulations and can ease homeowners through the process. He also coordinates with the city for all inspections. Although this was not an issue for us, it can be difficult to muddle through for the average DIYer. With the current economic cutbacks, city departments everywhere are operating with a lean staff and wait times are considerable, further adding to the frustration.

8. The go-between. When things are not done right, need to be reworked or just go awry, the GC can soften the blow to the subcontractors or to the homeowner. The GC will be able to look the larger picture and do what’s best for all parties in a professional manner that is more impartial and reasonable.

Remember the GC is your advocate during the construction process. He will act on your behalf to ensure that the project goes smoothly. And that was something in which we were willing to invest.

by Caryn Urata
www.abodepdx.com

A Contemporary Becomes Victorian

The second couple had an unusual project that was both interesting and unique. They moved to Spokane from Seattle in 1990, at which time they purchased their 1910 home at a cost of about $55,000. Even though the home required a lot of work just to make it livable, they bought it because of the neighborhood. It was a three-bedroom, two-bathroom, one-and a half story contemporary home with 1,900 square feet, including 600 square feet in the basement. He had been a carpenter for 20 years and both are in real estate. This project was so extreme—a major remodel since they wanted a Victorian house—that if you hadn’t seen the home before it was remodeled, you would never recognize it.

He drew his own plans and they decided to handle the entire project themselves. They started in 1991 by adding a 900 square-foot two-car garage. Work on the home actually started in 1992. Before the entire project was completed, they estimated total costs somewhere around $40,000 in materials only since the owner supplied all the labor. This project also allowed the couple to reinvest profits from the sale of their home in Seattle. Again, this home outpriced other homes in the neighborhood which are valued between $110,000 and $150,000.

Some of the products that were purchased and installed will not only save money in terms of energy efficiency but will also enhance the finished look of the overall project. For example, they selected used 2″ decking and used columns for the front porch. They added another 1,100 square feet to both floors for a total of 3,000 square feet including an additional 600 square feet for the basement and an additional 900 square feet above the garage that is used as a self-contained studio apartment (kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom—all electrical is on the house meter). The rest of the home has six bedrooms and three bathrooms.

Incidentally, the sycamore tree in the yard dates back almost 90 years and really enhances the overall transformation this house has undergone. In the early 1900s this tree, along with others (locusts, Norway maples, and elms) were used in plantings designed by the Olmsted Brothers, famous landscape architects of Brookline, Massachusetts. This firm also designed Central Park in New York City and the Stanford University campus. This particular sycamore tree was shipped in from a Boston nursery and was featured in an article in Sunset Magazine in 1967.

The first story is about a 1912 stucco Tudor home:

The first couple bought their home in 1981 for around $53,000. Built in 1912, their stucco Tudor home had two bedrooms and a full bathroom on the second floor and contained 800 square feet on the first floor, 750 on the second, and 700 in the basement.

Immediate Repairs Needed

Unfortunately, when they first bought their home, they were faced with repairs. The house had been sitting vacant for a year before they purchased it. During that time, water pipes and heat radiators had frozen. The house also had an old oil boiler.

They removed the oil boiler and installed inner thermal electric water radiant baseboard heat. But the baseboard heating system did not prove to be efficient; there were no storm windows, and the house still had cold spots. They contacted the local electrical utility company to have their home converted to gas (hot water and furnace) and to qualify for the Weatherization Program. They sold the radiators and some of the thermal baseboards to a used building supply. The rest of the inner thermal baseboards were sold to a friend and donated to a local charity.

The Weatherization Program helps customers identify and repair areas where energy may be lost due to inadequate insulation and inefficient doors and windows. Financial assistance may be offered by the electrical utility company to qualifying customers for taking weatherization steps. For example, grants may be offered to help cover a portion of the cost of insulating attics, walls, and floors over heated areas. A small grant may be paid toward replacing existing windows with more energy efficient windows. An energy audit determines the exact amount of each grant, and the grant does not need to be repaid. Any remaining balance after the work is completed and the grant has been awarded is the homeowner’s responsibility. There may be a weatherization program in your area—you will want to contact your local electrical utility company for more information.

While the house appeared large, the rooms were small. With children still at home, it was time for an expansion. The thought of moving never entered the picture—they liked the neighborhood—but they didn’t know how to add on without losing the integrity of the home. An architect friend drew some plans that the couple liked so well that they hired a contractor and started their project in September 1993.

The Remodeling Experience

The contractor was to be responsible for excavation, foundations, framing, plumbing, roofing, insulation, and drywall. In order to save money, they purchased the windows which the contractor installed. They also did the demolition with the help of their 13-year-old son, and they did their own wiring—all 4,500 feet of it!

Another area where they saved (or in this case, made) money, was by putting their detached single-car garage up for sale. They ran a classified ad in the local newspaper that read “Garage for Sale,” which most people read as “Garage Sale.” Boy, were these people surprised when they showed up looking for furniture and trinkets! Once sold, the garage was relocated and the couple didn’t have to go through the process of tearing it down.

The completed addition is a dream come true as it gives the homeowners the extra room they need and want. The square footage of their home was increased by 800 square feet per floor, including the 800-foot double-car garage at basement level. The addition includes a new kitchen, full bathroom, and a mud/laundry room on the first floor. The second floor has a master bedroom, an extra bedroom, a full bathroom, and a rebuild of the original bathroom.

Final Thoughts

This house finished out with four bedrooms and three baths, not to mention the original sun room, a deck over the garage (using a special membrane material so water will not leak into the garage), and the original basement that incorporated extra rooms. The new addition was finished to match the existing home, both exterior and interior.

By the time the job was completed, the couple put between $80,000 and $90,000 into the project. For a time, their home outpriced the rest of the neighborhood, but this was of little concern to them. They like the neighborhood and plan to stay there, and that was their main reason for doing the project.

Stay tuned for stories two and three…

We chose a classic 3 x 6-in. New York subway-style tile with patterned stone trim pieces that matched our countertop color. The shelf above the range is perfect for setting seasoning containers on while you’re cooking. This design feature should only be used for a range that has a panel backsplash or heat deflector built into it.

To have as much space as possible for our tile design, we chose new countertops that didn’t have the typical built-in backsplash. But you could also tile above such backsplashes with equally great results. As for price, for an average-size kitchen, you’ll spend $300 to $500 for moderately priced tile, or about $7 per square foot.

The only special tools you’ll need are a notched trowel, a margin trowel for mixing, a tile saw to cut tile around electrical boxes and at corners, and a level to draw layout lines.

Prep the Walls to Maximize Tile Adhesion
Wash the walls of the backsplash with a non-sudsing cleaner like Soilax or TSP and thoroughly rinse with clear water to remove any residue. In most cases, after washing you can sand the wall with 100-grit sandpaper to slightly roughen the surface of the paint.

Before you tile, protect the surface of the countertops, because the thin-set mortar and the backside of the tiles are abrasive.

Installation
Plan Your Tile Layout
The tile you choose and the dimensions of your backsplash area will dictate your layout. Here are a few suggestions to get your layout to work:

Sketch your backsplash design on graph paper and figure the amount of tile you need. Buy an extra 10 percent to make up for cutoffs and any goofs you might make while cutting.

Once you get your tile, lay out a section of it complete with spacers to see the amount of coverage you’ll get with your tile.

Measure the backsplash area again from side to side and bottom to top to make sure your pattern will work. You want to avoid having pieces smaller than an inch at the top and the ends. Small pieces are difficult to cut and make the project look amateurish.

You may want to shift the pattern to avoid complicated cuts around electrical outlets and other obstructions.

Remember to allow space for a caulk joint at inside corners; this can affect the size of pieces as well.

Once you have your layout, transfer guidelines onto the wall with your level and square. The lines will act as a general guide, so don’t plot every tile.

Mix the Mortar to a Toothpaste Consistency
We chose thin-set mortar rather than a mastic adhesive because thin-set is heat resistant and forms an excellent bond. It’s very easy to mix: Just add water and an acrylic-bonding agent in equal amounts to the powder until you get a smooth mix the consistency of toothpaste. The bonding agent improves the durability and flexibility of the mortar.

Spread the mortar onto the wall with your notched trowel. We chose a 1/4-in. notched trowel for our tile. Ask your tile supplier what will work best for the tile you chose.

Push Your Tile Into the Mortar
Following your layout lines, start pushing your tile into the mortar one piece at a time. Don’t spread too much mortar onto the wall and get ahead of yourself. The mortar will start to dry and reduce the adhesion. Generally it’s best to spread the adhesive for only about 10 pieces of tile until you get the hang of it and can increase your speed. If the mortar skins over and dries, scrape it off and apply fresh mortar.

Insert the tile spacers as you go to keep the tiles from sagging into each other, and don’t worry about small globs of mortar oozing between the tiles. You can always go back a few hours later and knock them loose with a putty knife or chisel. Continue spreading mortar, cutting the end pieces and adding courses.

Use a Wet Saw to Cut Tile Around Electrical Boxes
Shut the power off to your backsplash receptacles and unscrew and pull out the devices so they won’t get in your way as you measure and cut around them. There’s no real trick here other than measuring and marking the tile so it’s even with the edges of the box. First mark the cutout on your tile with a fine-tip permanent marker so the lines won’t wash away on the wet saw.When cutting pieces to fit into the corners, ease the sharp edges of the cuts with a tile stone ($5 at your tile supplier).

Cleanup Before Grouting Is Crucial
Once the mortar has set overnight, remove the spacers and go back with a putty or utility knife and clean the clumps of oozing mortar from the tile and spaces between. Also clean out the excess mortar under the first course of tile at the countertops to leave space for caulk. Once the backsplash is cleaned off, thoroughly vacuum the entire shelf and countertop before grouting. If you fail to get all the excess mortar scraped away, the grout will be discolored at those spots.

Push the Grout Into the Spaces
Mixing grout is similar to mixing thin-set mortar. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Some types of grout need an acrylic additive; others don’t. Mix just what you can apply in about 20 minutes so it doesn’t dry out. Usually about a quart of grout (mixed) works best. Acrylic additives shouldn’t be used with some natural-stone tile to avoid staining the stone, so check with your tile supplier.

Push the grout into the spaces between the tiles with a grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to the tile and push firmly across the tile surfaces. For stubborn, hard-to-get-at spots in corners, you may need to push it in with your fingers(wear rubber gloves). Use the float to wipe away any excess grout and then scrape it back into your bucket. Divide the project into manageable chunks. You don’t need to grout the whole project at one time.

After about 15 minutes or so, you should start sponging the tile surface to remove the grout. Be sure to wring out the sponge well so you won’t add a lot of water to the grout as it sets. Too much water will weaken the grout mixture. Wipe the surface at least three times and check for haze once it dries.

Note: If you choose stone or tile with a dull finish, you may need to seal it before grouting. This keeps the grout from being absorbed into the tile and forming a stubborn haze.

TIP: Never pour excess mortar or grout down your drain. You’ll have a huge plumbing bill and a lot of headaches if it hardens down there. Just throw the excess mortar into the trash and clean the bucket with a stiff brush. For your rinse buckets, let the grout or mortar settle to the bottom, pour off the water at the top and scoop the thick waste at the bottom into the trash.

Caulk the Seam Between the Tile and the Countertop
Once the grout has set for a couple of hours, remove the protective paper and tape from the countertops. Clean the countertop seam with a knife and then vacuum the bits of dried grout. Caulk the seam with a siliconized latex caulk and wipe the excess away with a clean cloth to get a small profile joint. You may need to wipe several times with a damp cloth to get the desired effect.

For in-depth details and buyers guides, you can visit The Family Handyman.

The question then is how to pick your colors. A great place to start is with your own preferences. Think of place or things that please you and the colors they have or evoke. The inspiration may come from a fabric, food or place. Color is everywhere, pay close attention and you can find ones that excite, or calm you.

You can also make a trip to the paint store where there are hundreds of paint chips to choose from along with small sample cans for purchase. These small samples allow you to try the color at home on a larger area and can be a great way to test your final choices before committing to them.

Designers use a storyboard to create a mock up design of a room. Create your own storyboard using pictures or clippings from magazines that illustrate designs and colors that you like. Add to this your paint chips, fabric swatches, floor plan, photos of accessories and any other decorating and remodeling ideas you would like to use in the space. Pooling these items allows you to see how they will all work together.

The Fix&Flip Network offers some tips:
For beginners in home improvement, the flooring material that is easiest to install is vinyl tiles and sheets. Many vinyl flooring materials are already self adhesive, so you really do not have to think much about applying adhesives and bonding materials.

With vinyl, after you have laid down the vinyl tiles or sheets, you just need to ensure that the tiles are clean and free of dirt and you already have a floor that will look as if it has been done by a professional. Ceramic tile flooring is also popular, but it is easy to break. Utmost care is needed while installing them. Overall, vinyl is much cheaper and easier to redo just in case you see problems.

Remember that you cannot simply install vinyl tiles, wooden panels or ceramic tiles on top of your existing flooring. Finally, it is also important that you have all the tools that you need before you start your flooring project. Again, if you are not comfortable with using home repair tools, the best flooring material for you is vinyl flooring .

So here, ripped from the headlines so to speak, are my
Top Ten Tips for Remodeling. Read ‘em and weep.

1. There is a solution to every situation. But it’s
not necessarily yours. You go where the solution is – it
doesn’t come to you.

2. There is no medicine for whatever ails you quite like hard, exhausting, purposeful work.

3. Chew your own food. Don’t make your
problems other peoples. They’ve got their own.

4. I’m not psychic. Maybe you are.
Guesstimates of time and money are just that.
Reality has a way of intruding. When in doubt – go
with Reality. (I don’t know when I’m going to die
either).

5. Pain fades with time. Remodeling is like giving
birth. When you’re in the middle of delivery you
swear you’ll never do it again. But then the kid turns out to
be a looker, a few years go by…..Yadda yadda yadda – you’re in escrow.

6. There are no problems – only opportunities
for creativity, action and collaboration.

7. You’re born alone, you die alone – you don’t
have to win alone. Everyone can win. Some win more
than others but there’s enough in the pot to spread
around. If you squeeze a vendor to bid a job so
low that they can’t make money, harbor
resentment and cut corners – you both lose.

8. Nobody owes you anything. If they help you
it’s because they’re generous people. Acknowledge
them.

9. Everything comes to an end. And then it starts
up again.

10. Remodeling really is like Improv. You show up
without a script. You have no idea what’s going to
happen next ( except you can be sure that whatever
you think it’ll be – you’re wrong). You’re dependent
on others for their performances. So help them shine.
You make it work by paying attention to everything
and dealing with whatever Reality presents to you. Do
the best you can with the resources you have and don’t forget to enjoy the ride.

11. Okay, I lied. There are more than Ten Tips to Remodeling. There are actually thousands. This last one, though, is the most important. Don’t forget to put yourself on your own Punch List. No pressure of work or money is reason enough not to eat right,sleep enough, monitor your health and appreciate your
family.

Repair broken floor tiles/install new tiles
To spruce up the bathroom or kitchen, repair broken tiles and install new ones. Try using the Dremel Multi-Max Oscillating Tool for best results. Insert a grout blade into the oscillating tool and orient the blade on the tool so you can best access all four sides of the broken tile. For hard set grout, use the maximum speed; softer and less-set grout can be worked at a medium speed. Keep the blade at a right angle to the floor, being careful not to knick the remaining good tile. Remove all the old tile and dust.

Continue working away remaining grout. Remove the remaining thin set material with a diamond coated accessory. Attach the sanding pad and diamond paper. With the sander flat to the floor, work away any old material, dusting several times throughout. Removing the excess material will allow the new tile to sit flush with the other tiles already in place. Once the surface is clean to the subfloor, remove any dust with a wet sponge. Finally, affix and grout new tile into place.

Refinish kitchen or bathroom cabinets
Refinishing cabinets in a kitchen or bathroom is an inexpensive way to update the look of the whole room. Detach all of the drawers and doors and store them in a clean, dry place. Inspect the cabinets for any damage, and repair with wood putty or by sanding. Then, wash cabinets to remove any dirt that has accumulated over time. In order to make the next step, sanding, as effortless as possible, use an oscillating tool with sanding pad and sand paper. 120 wood sandpaper is usually recommended. While sanding on medium speed, keep the sanding pad flat to the wood. Always move the pad in the direction of the grain. Finally, paint or stain the cabinets.

Tile grout
Removing and replacing tile grout is a small renovation project that pays big dividends in appearance and most homeowners find the project simple enough to do on their own. One of the primary reasons people replace grout is because of mold accumulation. The first step is to remove the existing grout material. Invest in an inexpensive power tool equipped with an attachment designed specifically for quick grout removal such as a rotary tool with a grout removal blade which will grind the old grout away in a matter of minutes. Then, thoroughly clean the areas where the existing grout was removed before adding the new grout between tiles. Remember to follow the grout manufacturer’s directions for a clean and thorough job.

Remove old caulk
Removing old sealing caulk from around a sink or bathtub is a simple way to refresh a room. Begin by lining caulk with masking tape to reduce the risk of scratching the porcelain or tile. For easy removal, use an oscillating tool with a flexible scraper blade. Set the tool at a low speed and insert the blade in between the wall and the caulk. Make sure that the screw head does not make contact with the surface during the scraping process by holding the tool at an angle to the blade. Work the line between the sink and the lower edge of the caulk and peel away the remaining caulk. When all the caulk is removed, wipe the area with rubbing alcohol to remove any remaining residue and remove the tape.

To re-caulk, line the seam with fresh tape. Hold the nozzle of your caulking gun toward the joint about 45 degrees out from it. Apply steady pressure to the trigger while moving the gun at a smooth speed along the length of the seam.