Here are some reason why from someone whose been there:

1. Warranty. I wanted the option of being able to call someone if anything went wrong during or after construction. It put my mind at ease to know that the General Contractor (GC) would be there whatever the issue, whenever it might occur and do whatever it takes to remedy the situation.

2. Language barrier. Like any profession, the building industry has its own vocabulary, communication method and process. Unless you are knowledgeable of the field, understand the construction process and what the specific project involves, and know who to and how to and when to communicate with the various subcontractors, vendors, distributors and city officials, you will be in over your head.

3. Major time-commitment. There are a lot of behind-the-scenes organization, paperwork and phone calls that need to be made before and during a project. If you are unfamiliar with the construction industry, managing the project will become your full-time job as there will be a steep learning curve. If you are already employed, it will be very difficult to do both jobs well. Passing on the duties of GC simplified my life and allowed me to concentrate on my roles as architect and homeowner.

4. Headaches. In theory, scheduling and project coordination sound like relatively easy tasks, but not so. There are many trades that need to be involved in a moderately-sized project, and they all need to be scheduled, timed, organized, synchronized and managed. Inspectors and subcontractors go on vacation or may be unavailable at a desired time. Frustrations occur when materials get back-ordered, discontinued, shipped incorrectly, arrive damaged or incomplete, have special handling requirements or need to be picked-up. Other duties that I did not want to take on were checking pricing, verifying invoices and managing the payments. These were better left to the GC.

5. Established relationship with subcontractors. It takes a GC several years to develop and maintain a circle of trusted tradesmen. He will know several professionals in each trade and will be able to best match the subcontractor to the job and client. When hiring a GC, the homeowner benefits from the GC’s knowledge of the industry, years of experience and local contacts. But when a homeowner hires a sub himself, there are risks for both parties. For the homeowner, there are potentially higher project costs, longer construction time, sporadic work by subs and having an unknown and untested person work in the home. As the project is just a one-time event, the homeowner is not as important as a GC to a sub because there is no promise of repeat business or multiple jobs. Subs will often charge a little more when dealing directly with a homeowner because of the time needed to educate and manage the homeowner. For the tradesman, there are the risks of not being paid by the homeowner on the agreed upon price or even on time, working for someone who may not have a good understanding of the construction process, and not have a defined scope, schedule, budget or materials list.

6. Insurance. General contractors and their subs are licensed, bonded and insured. As such, they, the homeowner and the project are protected if injury, theft, vandalism or late or nonpayment should occur. These issues are not so straightforward when a homeowner acts as their own GC, and a homeowner’s policy alone does not provide full coverage during construction. Of course you should always verify that a GC is LBI before hiring him.

7. Permit process. Although usually done by the architect, the GC can navigate the plans through permitting on your behalf. He is knowledgeable about the local codes and regulations and can ease homeowners through the process. He also coordinates with the city for all inspections. Although this was not an issue for us, it can be difficult to muddle through for the average DIYer. With the current economic cutbacks, city departments everywhere are operating with a lean staff and wait times are considerable, further adding to the frustration.

8. The go-between. When things are not done right, need to be reworked or just go awry, the GC can soften the blow to the subcontractors or to the homeowner. The GC will be able to look the larger picture and do what’s best for all parties in a professional manner that is more impartial and reasonable.

Remember the GC is your advocate during the construction process. He will act on your behalf to ensure that the project goes smoothly. And that was something in which we were willing to invest.

by Caryn Urata
www.abodepdx.com

A Contemporary Becomes Victorian

The second couple had an unusual project that was both interesting and unique. They moved to Spokane from Seattle in 1990, at which time they purchased their 1910 home at a cost of about $55,000. Even though the home required a lot of work just to make it livable, they bought it because of the neighborhood. It was a three-bedroom, two-bathroom, one-and a half story contemporary home with 1,900 square feet, including 600 square feet in the basement. He had been a carpenter for 20 years and both are in real estate. This project was so extreme—a major remodel since they wanted a Victorian house—that if you hadn’t seen the home before it was remodeled, you would never recognize it.

He drew his own plans and they decided to handle the entire project themselves. They started in 1991 by adding a 900 square-foot two-car garage. Work on the home actually started in 1992. Before the entire project was completed, they estimated total costs somewhere around $40,000 in materials only since the owner supplied all the labor. This project also allowed the couple to reinvest profits from the sale of their home in Seattle. Again, this home outpriced other homes in the neighborhood which are valued between $110,000 and $150,000.

Some of the products that were purchased and installed will not only save money in terms of energy efficiency but will also enhance the finished look of the overall project. For example, they selected used 2″ decking and used columns for the front porch. They added another 1,100 square feet to both floors for a total of 3,000 square feet including an additional 600 square feet for the basement and an additional 900 square feet above the garage that is used as a self-contained studio apartment (kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom—all electrical is on the house meter). The rest of the home has six bedrooms and three bathrooms.

Incidentally, the sycamore tree in the yard dates back almost 90 years and really enhances the overall transformation this house has undergone. In the early 1900s this tree, along with others (locusts, Norway maples, and elms) were used in plantings designed by the Olmsted Brothers, famous landscape architects of Brookline, Massachusetts. This firm also designed Central Park in New York City and the Stanford University campus. This particular sycamore tree was shipped in from a Boston nursery and was featured in an article in Sunset Magazine in 1967.

The first story is about a 1912 stucco Tudor home:

The first couple bought their home in 1981 for around $53,000. Built in 1912, their stucco Tudor home had two bedrooms and a full bathroom on the second floor and contained 800 square feet on the first floor, 750 on the second, and 700 in the basement.

Immediate Repairs Needed

Unfortunately, when they first bought their home, they were faced with repairs. The house had been sitting vacant for a year before they purchased it. During that time, water pipes and heat radiators had frozen. The house also had an old oil boiler.

They removed the oil boiler and installed inner thermal electric water radiant baseboard heat. But the baseboard heating system did not prove to be efficient; there were no storm windows, and the house still had cold spots. They contacted the local electrical utility company to have their home converted to gas (hot water and furnace) and to qualify for the Weatherization Program. They sold the radiators and some of the thermal baseboards to a used building supply. The rest of the inner thermal baseboards were sold to a friend and donated to a local charity.

The Weatherization Program helps customers identify and repair areas where energy may be lost due to inadequate insulation and inefficient doors and windows. Financial assistance may be offered by the electrical utility company to qualifying customers for taking weatherization steps. For example, grants may be offered to help cover a portion of the cost of insulating attics, walls, and floors over heated areas. A small grant may be paid toward replacing existing windows with more energy efficient windows. An energy audit determines the exact amount of each grant, and the grant does not need to be repaid. Any remaining balance after the work is completed and the grant has been awarded is the homeowner’s responsibility. There may be a weatherization program in your area—you will want to contact your local electrical utility company for more information.

While the house appeared large, the rooms were small. With children still at home, it was time for an expansion. The thought of moving never entered the picture—they liked the neighborhood—but they didn’t know how to add on without losing the integrity of the home. An architect friend drew some plans that the couple liked so well that they hired a contractor and started their project in September 1993.

The Remodeling Experience

The contractor was to be responsible for excavation, foundations, framing, plumbing, roofing, insulation, and drywall. In order to save money, they purchased the windows which the contractor installed. They also did the demolition with the help of their 13-year-old son, and they did their own wiring—all 4,500 feet of it!

Another area where they saved (or in this case, made) money, was by putting their detached single-car garage up for sale. They ran a classified ad in the local newspaper that read “Garage for Sale,” which most people read as “Garage Sale.” Boy, were these people surprised when they showed up looking for furniture and trinkets! Once sold, the garage was relocated and the couple didn’t have to go through the process of tearing it down.

The completed addition is a dream come true as it gives the homeowners the extra room they need and want. The square footage of their home was increased by 800 square feet per floor, including the 800-foot double-car garage at basement level. The addition includes a new kitchen, full bathroom, and a mud/laundry room on the first floor. The second floor has a master bedroom, an extra bedroom, a full bathroom, and a rebuild of the original bathroom.

Final Thoughts

This house finished out with four bedrooms and three baths, not to mention the original sun room, a deck over the garage (using a special membrane material so water will not leak into the garage), and the original basement that incorporated extra rooms. The new addition was finished to match the existing home, both exterior and interior.

By the time the job was completed, the couple put between $80,000 and $90,000 into the project. For a time, their home outpriced the rest of the neighborhood, but this was of little concern to them. They like the neighborhood and plan to stay there, and that was their main reason for doing the project.

Stay tuned for stories two and three…

“Today, building science experts have found that some building products and faulty installation methods used just a short time ago have contributed to the structural damage that homes are currently experiencing today.” says Lee Haller, owner of Haller Custom Homes, a builder of high-end homes and residential neighborhoods in the western Philadelphia suburbs. Haller’s company specializes in remediation and restoration of moisture-damaged homes.

Haller says the construction industry has taken great strides to create new approaches to avoid bulk water intrusion, and to drain and dry any water that does manage to penetrate the exterior cladding. But what to do with newer homes that were built before these best practices were introduced?

According to housingzone.com, one solution to avoiding the problem of bulk water intrusion has been the incorporation of a rainscreen system in the home’s design. A rainscreen, as described by the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB)

Research Center, is a moisture-management system incorporating cladding, an air cavity and a drainage plane to shed moisture and prevent moisture intrusion and the resulting premature decay in homes.

Haller adds that builders constructing homes without a rainscreen system behind any absorptive cladding like stucco, stone or fiber cement should also think twice. “I know for a fact that the builders who are dealing with liability issues for the repair of the original construction are finding that the cost of the repairs totally erase the profit they made on the home when it was first built, and then some,” he says. “I say spend the little bit extra when the home is being built and avoid the huge possible expense down the road.”

The NAHB recently issued an educational guide that discussed the need for better drainage behind so-called “absorptive” exterior claddings, which include any materials that are semi-porous and may transmit or retain some water. This can include stucco, manufactured stone, stone veneer and even fiber-cement siding. Among the products referenced that can be used as part of an effective building envelope system is a wall drainage spacer, described as an “open-weave plastic mat.”

Haller’s Approach:

•After studying the home’s condition, erect scaffolding and begin removing the stucco.

• Examine the sheathing. If the OSB or plywood is damaged, replace it. With OSB , run a circular saw around the joints of the OSB to create a 1/16-inch gap.

• Replace damaged 2 x 4s or other structural framing.

• If windows are damaged or other specific conditions are present, re-install them or replace them using the latest wrap products and flashing for moisture-resistance. Cover the windows for protection.

• Remove the cornice and apply the water-resistant barrier to the entire wall, including behind where the cornice had been. Gables are extended to create an overhang to prevent water entry.

• Install Benjamin Obdyke’s Home Slicker Stone & Stucco.

• House is watertight at that point and ready to stucco.

Alternatives to Home Slicker include offerings from:

Sto Corp.

Vaproshield

Dow

Masonry Innovations

Check it out here.

So here, ripped from the headlines so to speak, are my
Top Ten Tips for Remodeling. Read ‘em and weep.

1. There is a solution to every situation. But it’s
not necessarily yours. You go where the solution is – it
doesn’t come to you.

2. There is no medicine for whatever ails you quite like hard, exhausting, purposeful work.

3. Chew your own food. Don’t make your
problems other peoples. They’ve got their own.

4. I’m not psychic. Maybe you are.
Guesstimates of time and money are just that.
Reality has a way of intruding. When in doubt – go
with Reality. (I don’t know when I’m going to die
either).

5. Pain fades with time. Remodeling is like giving
birth. When you’re in the middle of delivery you
swear you’ll never do it again. But then the kid turns out to
be a looker, a few years go by…..Yadda yadda yadda – you’re in escrow.

6. There are no problems – only opportunities
for creativity, action and collaboration.

7. You’re born alone, you die alone – you don’t
have to win alone. Everyone can win. Some win more
than others but there’s enough in the pot to spread
around. If you squeeze a vendor to bid a job so
low that they can’t make money, harbor
resentment and cut corners – you both lose.

8. Nobody owes you anything. If they help you
it’s because they’re generous people. Acknowledge
them.

9. Everything comes to an end. And then it starts
up again.

10. Remodeling really is like Improv. You show up
without a script. You have no idea what’s going to
happen next ( except you can be sure that whatever
you think it’ll be – you’re wrong). You’re dependent
on others for their performances. So help them shine.
You make it work by paying attention to everything
and dealing with whatever Reality presents to you. Do
the best you can with the resources you have and don’t forget to enjoy the ride.

11. Okay, I lied. There are more than Ten Tips to Remodeling. There are actually thousands. This last one, though, is the most important. Don’t forget to put yourself on your own Punch List. No pressure of work or money is reason enough not to eat right,sleep enough, monitor your health and appreciate your
family.

Avoid remodelers at all costs when:

* You can’t verify the name, address, telephone number or credentials of the remodeler.
* The salesperson tries to pressure you into signing a contract.
* The company or salesperson says your home will be used for advertising purposes so you will be given a “special, low rate.”
* The builder/remodeler tells you a special price is available only if you sign the contract “today.”
* No references are furnished.
* Information you receive from the contractor is out-of-date or no longer valid.
* You are unable to verify the license or insurance information.
* You are asked to pay for the entire job in advance, or to pay in cash to a salesperson instead of by check or money order to the company itself.
* The company cannot be found in the telephone book, is not listed with the local Better Business Bureau, or with a local trade association, such as NARI.
* The contractor does not offer, inform or extend notice of your right to cancel the contract within three days. Notification in writing of your Right of Recision is required by law. This grace period allows you to change your mind and declare the contract null and void without penalty (if the agreement was solicited at some place other than the contractor’s place of business or appropriate trade premises-in your home, for instance.)

In addition, be cautious when:

* You are given vague or reluctant answers.
* The contractor exhibits poor communication skills or descriptive powers.
* The contractor is not accessible.
* Your questions are not answered to your satisfaction.
* The contractor is impatient and does not listen.
* Only the work is addressed, instead of your needs as the homeowner.
* There is no presentation book of previous projects presented

Getting Started

* The most important step is finding a professional remodeling contractor for your job. Check out Find a Professional Remodeler on www.RemodelToday.com for a contractor near you.

* Hire a professional contractor who is familiar with the building codes in your area. Updating work that does not meet code can be extremely expensive.

* A well–written contract can prevent costly mistakes or additions to the scope of your project. It is a critical step in maintaining your budget.

* Save money by planning ahead. Go through the design process first and choose everything you want to include in the new room(s), from appliances to light fixtures, etc. This will define your budget and prevent hasty (and costly) decisions later in the project. Be sure to include all your product and material selections in the contract to avoid confusion and unnecessary change orders. Include the model, size, color, and other specifications. It is also wise to save 10–20 percent of your budget to allow for items added to the scope of work.

* The number one way to decrease the cost of your remodeling project is product choices. Look around to determine whether you can achieve a similar look with a less expensive product.

* In addition, pay attention to how labor intensive some design features may be, for example laying ceramic tile on kitchen countertops and the backsplash.

* Compare products and their prices carefully before you make final decisions. And keep an open mind when you discuss product and design ideas with your contractor.

* Make decisions based on value and quality, not just price.

* Think about staging the work being done to minimize the initial financial impact. It is often easier to create a more manageable budget by starting small and adding to the project at a later date. This will break the work into several jobs instead of one large project. The down side of staging a remodel is that you may end up paying more in the long run.

General Remodeling Tips

* Be creative. There are often multiple solutions to accomplish a design objective, some more expensive than others. Discuss various options with your contractor.
* If all the room really needs is a facelift, make the most of changes with paint, as opposed to structural changes. Changing the color of a room can revitalize it. This is the easiest way to bring life to a room on a budget.
* Heavy or textured wallpaper can work wonders as well. You can save money by wallpapering a slightly damaged wall rather than replacing it. If the wall has grass cloth wallpaper on it, consider whitewashing it for a totally new look. Several layers of whitewash (in various shades of white) produce a clean, sophisticated look in any room.
* Faux finish painting or other textured decorative painting techniques also can hide minor damage or irregularities that flat paint won’t.
* Attempt to keep windows in their existing places during a remodeling project. Moving windows is not a cost–saving endeavor.

Finding Space

* Creating more space can be a big budget buster. Once you add square footage to a home, the price increases significantly. One alternative is to borrow space from a neighboring room (called space reconfiguration). A great place to steal space for a bathroom expansion is from the linen closet. You can make up some of the lost storage by finding small spaces in between wall studs for small niches or built–in shelves.
* You can also try borrowing space with optical illusions. There are many ways to make a small room appear larger. To transform a small bath, install a bow window or a skylight. Vaulted ceilings can be a nice touch, too.
* If you are going to expand outside the existing home, consider a small bump out of two to four feet. This may allow you to cantilever the floor joists and eliminate the need for excavation and foundation. If possible, be careful not to extend beyond the roofline, which might require a new roofline to your job.
* Whenever you are adding on new space to a home, have a heating/cooling contractor determine whether your existing heating/air conditioning system can accommodate and heat/cool the extra space. If the heating/cooling system is damaged, you will be forced to replace the existing units.

Each remodeling job is different, we offer tips for kitchens and bathrooms specifically.

“Even the highest-quality shingles cannot work to protect a home if one other part of your roofing system isn’t operating in perfect concert with the other parts,” says Bert Elliott, Owens Corning roofing systems expert.

So what is a roofing system, and how do you choose one that’s right for you? Here are a few tips:

First, know the signs that it’s time to replace your roof. Most likely your roof has asphalt shingles, as four out of five roofs in the United States do. Conduct a simple visual inspection from a ladder or by viewing the roof through binoculars. Signs that it might need replacing or repair include algae growth on the shingles, damaged flashing around chimneys and other openings, buckling, curling, blistering, missing shingles or rotten wood in the attic.

Next you’ll need to make sure that you understand what a roofing system is to know what to ask your contractor. It’s easy, if you think of your roof serving three important purposes: protection from the elements, ventilation and beautification.

* Ice and water barriers protect vulnerable areas such as eaves and valleys from ice, snow and driving rain.

* Underlayment products provide protection against water seepage between the shingles and the roof deck.

* Shingles protect your home from the elements while adding curb appeal as they can make up to 50 percent of the face of your home.

* Hip and ridge shingles add extra protection and style to a home’s roof ridge line.

* Gutter protection prevents clogs, while allowing water to flow freely.

*Ventilation products help ensure that your attic is properly ventilated, preventing mold growth.

* Attic insulation allows homes to become more energy efficient by maintaining a more comfortable temperature year round.

Ideally, all parts of your roofing system should come from a single manufacturer as it is designed to work together for maximum performance.

“While your contractor is up on the top of your home, ask him or her to make sure your attic is sufficiently insulated. A properly insulated attic helps increase the energy efficiency of your home and make your home more comfortable,” Elliott says. “The best part is it pays for itself over time in energy saved – a properly insulated home can help save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling bills and insulation is eligible for the tax credit too, according to the government’s Web site for the ENERGY STAR program.”

Once you understand the parts of a roofing system, consider how a roof can impact the curb appeal of a home. Work with your contractor to find a style and color that coordinates with the siding, colors, and style of your home.

Choosing a contractor to install your new roof is just as important as choosing the overall system itself. Use references from friends and family, and online resources like Owens Corning’s contractor locator – found at www.owenscorning.com – to gather names and information on candidates. Be sure to check contractors’ license status before you seek bids from them. And don’t automatically go for the lowest bid – be sure competing bids are comparing apples to apples before you decide on one.