Sometimes all a kitchen needs is a little face lift, not an entire remodel. A new tile back splash can add color or interest to your kitchen. The job we found at Family Handyman, can be done in just a few days. If you have along weekend you can plan to update the kitchen!

We chose a classic 3 x 6-in. New York subway-style tile with patterned stone trim pieces that matched our countertop color. The shelf above the range is perfect for setting seasoning containers on while you’re cooking. This design feature should only be used for a range that has a panel backsplash or heat deflector built into it.

To have as much space as possible for our tile design, we chose new countertops that didn’t have the typical built-in backsplash. But you could also tile above such backsplashes with equally great results. As for price, for an average-size kitchen, you’ll spend $300 to $500 for moderately priced tile, or about $7 per square foot.

The only special tools you’ll need are a notched trowel, a margin trowel for mixing, a tile saw to cut tile around electrical boxes and at corners, and a level to draw layout lines.

Prep the Walls to Maximize Tile Adhesion
Wash the walls of the backsplash with a non-sudsing cleaner like Soilax or TSP and thoroughly rinse with clear water to remove any residue. In most cases, after washing you can sand the wall with 100-grit sandpaper to slightly roughen the surface of the paint.

Before you tile, protect the surface of the countertops, because the thin-set mortar and the backside of the tiles are abrasive.

Installation
Plan Your Tile Layout
The tile you choose and the dimensions of your backsplash area will dictate your layout. Here are a few suggestions to get your layout to work:

Sketch your backsplash design on graph paper and figure the amount of tile you need. Buy an extra 10 percent to make up for cutoffs and any goofs you might make while cutting.

Once you get your tile, lay out a section of it complete with spacers to see the amount of coverage you’ll get with your tile.

Measure the backsplash area again from side to side and bottom to top to make sure your pattern will work. You want to avoid having pieces smaller than an inch at the top and the ends. Small pieces are difficult to cut and make the project look amateurish.

You may want to shift the pattern to avoid complicated cuts around electrical outlets and other obstructions.

Remember to allow space for a caulk joint at inside corners; this can affect the size of pieces as well.

Once you have your layout, transfer guidelines onto the wall with your level and square. The lines will act as a general guide, so don’t plot every tile.

Mix the Mortar to a Toothpaste Consistency
We chose thin-set mortar rather than a mastic adhesive because thin-set is heat resistant and forms an excellent bond. It’s very easy to mix: Just add water and an acrylic-bonding agent in equal amounts to the powder until you get a smooth mix the consistency of toothpaste. The bonding agent improves the durability and flexibility of the mortar.

Spread the mortar onto the wall with your notched trowel. We chose a 1/4-in. notched trowel for our tile. Ask your tile supplier what will work best for the tile you chose.

Push Your Tile Into the Mortar
Following your layout lines, start pushing your tile into the mortar one piece at a time. Don’t spread too much mortar onto the wall and get ahead of yourself. The mortar will start to dry and reduce the adhesion. Generally it’s best to spread the adhesive for only about 10 pieces of tile until you get the hang of it and can increase your speed. If the mortar skins over and dries, scrape it off and apply fresh mortar.

Insert the tile spacers as you go to keep the tiles from sagging into each other, and don’t worry about small globs of mortar oozing between the tiles. You can always go back a few hours later and knock them loose with a putty knife or chisel. Continue spreading mortar, cutting the end pieces and adding courses.

Use a Wet Saw to Cut Tile Around Electrical Boxes
Shut the power off to your backsplash receptacles and unscrew and pull out the devices so they won’t get in your way as you measure and cut around them. There’s no real trick here other than measuring and marking the tile so it’s even with the edges of the box. First mark the cutout on your tile with a fine-tip permanent marker so the lines won’t wash away on the wet saw.When cutting pieces to fit into the corners, ease the sharp edges of the cuts with a tile stone ($5 at your tile supplier).

Cleanup Before Grouting Is Crucial
Once the mortar has set overnight, remove the spacers and go back with a putty or utility knife and clean the clumps of oozing mortar from the tile and spaces between. Also clean out the excess mortar under the first course of tile at the countertops to leave space for caulk. Once the backsplash is cleaned off, thoroughly vacuum the entire shelf and countertop before grouting. If you fail to get all the excess mortar scraped away, the grout will be discolored at those spots.

Push the Grout Into the Spaces
Mixing grout is similar to mixing thin-set mortar. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Some types of grout need an acrylic additive; others don’t. Mix just what you can apply in about 20 minutes so it doesn’t dry out. Usually about a quart of grout (mixed) works best. Acrylic additives shouldn’t be used with some natural-stone tile to avoid staining the stone, so check with your tile supplier.

Push the grout into the spaces between the tiles with a grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to the tile and push firmly across the tile surfaces. For stubborn, hard-to-get-at spots in corners, you may need to push it in with your fingers(wear rubber gloves). Use the float to wipe away any excess grout and then scrape it back into your bucket. Divide the project into manageable chunks. You don’t need to grout the whole project at one time.

After about 15 minutes or so, you should start sponging the tile surface to remove the grout. Be sure to wring out the sponge well so you won’t add a lot of water to the grout as it sets. Too much water will weaken the grout mixture. Wipe the surface at least three times and check for haze once it dries.

Note: If you choose stone or tile with a dull finish, you may need to seal it before grouting. This keeps the grout from being absorbed into the tile and forming a stubborn haze.

TIP: Never pour excess mortar or grout down your drain. You’ll have a huge plumbing bill and a lot of headaches if it hardens down there. Just throw the excess mortar into the trash and clean the bucket with a stiff brush. For your rinse buckets, let the grout or mortar settle to the bottom, pour off the water at the top and scoop the thick waste at the bottom into the trash.

Caulk the Seam Between the Tile and the Countertop
Once the grout has set for a couple of hours, remove the protective paper and tape from the countertops. Clean the countertop seam with a knife and then vacuum the bits of dried grout. Caulk the seam with a siliconized latex caulk and wipe the excess away with a clean cloth to get a small profile joint. You may need to wipe several times with a damp cloth to get the desired effect.

For in-depth details and buyers guides, you can visit The Family Handyman.